In the ancient city of Agadez, Niger, the once-thriving tourist industry has given way to a new reality of hardship and struggle. Elhadj Amadou Dizi Illo, a 63-year-old souvenir vendor, sits in his cramped store, surrounded by dusty mementos and artifacts from a bygone era. “It’s hard,” Illo said, his French soft and singsongy. “Life is hard for anyone who works in tourism, but there aren’t many options. We have to endure it.”
Agadez, a city located on the southern edge of the Sahara Desert, has a rich history dating back to the 8th century. The city’s unique architecture, including the Grand Mosque, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, has been a major draw for tourists. However, the city’s fortunes began to decline in the late 1980s, when a Tuareg revolt led to armed conflict and a subsequent decline in tourism.
The conflict has had a devastating impact on the city’s economy, with many hotels and souvenir shops shuttered. The lack of tourists has also led to a decline in the city’s infrastructure, with sewage spilling into sandy streets. The city’s residents are struggling to make ends meet, with many turning to alternative means of survival, such as migrant smuggling.
In the crowded bus station on the outskirts of Agadez, passeurs sit at desks, peering at papers and counting and recounting the names and numbers of passengers for the next convoy going into the desert. Each passenger pays 150,000 francs ($267) for the perilous journey, which can be fatal. Aminata, a middle-aged woman from Nigeria, said she was embarking on the journey to provide for her children, whom she had left back home. “I knew the dangers on the road already: the car could break down in the middle of the desert; we could be without help for hours, or even days; armed bandits could attack us,” she said.
Despite the challenges, the city remains a place of resilience and determination. Illo, the souvenir vendor, said that he would never leave Agadez, despite the hardships. “The world is full of problems right now, there’s no other place you can go that’ll be this quiet,” Illo said. “Despite all the difficulties, I can’t leave.” The city’s residents are finding ways to adapt and survive, even in the face of adversity.
The story of Agadez serves as a reminder of the impact of conflict and instability on local communities. The city’s rich heritage and culture are at risk of being lost forever, as the tourist industry that once sustained it disappears. The city’s residents are fighting to preserve their way of life, but it remains to be seen whether they will be able to overcome the challenges they face.